Turkey -- Cappadocia's Underground Cities

The journey continues…we flew to central Turkey to explore Cappadocia, a region created by three volcanoes that haven’t erupted for thousands of years but have left behind soft rock formations that give the area an other-worldly look – a cross between a science fiction set (I’m told the last Star Wars movie, chronologically the first, was filmed here), and Monument Valley. Wind and rain have eroded the soft rocks and shaped the area into a landscape that Fred and Wilma Flintstone would feel right at home in.

Driving through the valley is like being on another planet but the real surprise is when you explore the cave houses the region is famous for. The Hittites are thought to have lived here 4000 years ago where they worshiped pagan gods. Tiberius claimed this area for Rome in AD 17, and early Christians about the same time to escape persecution. Later, Monks lived here. There are incredible churches with arched ceilings, columns, and beautiful frescoes carved into the hillsides.

Arabs came in the 7^th century and forced the Christians deep underground where they lived in subterranean cities; some that go down 400 feet or more. I am more than a little claustrophobic, but I was so amazed by what I’d heard about these cities that I bit the bullet, ducked, and went for it. Sloping floors and steps connect the levels and there is an intricate system of air ducts that keeps the underground rooms well ventilated but at the same time, didn’t allow the enemy to “smoke out” the cave dwellers. There are rooms that were used for kitchens, stables, wine making and storing, churches, and even crypts. Big, flat round stones were used to seal off areas of the labyrinth when the enemy tried to invade. The underground city we explored was thought to be home to 20,000 people. AMAZING!

Our hotel, the very charming Esbelli Evi, is one of the famous cave hotels, carved into the side of a hill, not underground, that makes going to Cappadocia well worth the time it takes to get there. If you go, dinner at Ziggy Café was a delight.

The next morning I faced another fear (heights) and went for a hot air balloon ride. It was a great way to see the valleys and rock formations, and for the most part very peaceful. We shared our “basket” with a group of Turkish people. Of course they were Muslim; Turkey is 99% Muslim, but in contrast to Istanbul where most women dress in western clothes and are very cosmopolitan and friendly, these more provincial women were different. They weren’t the very religious women I occasionally saw, dressed in burqa and veils; instead they wore headscarves and longish coats over their clothes (ostensibly for modesty). The two grown women were loud and obnoxious. If you have ever seen the Seinfeld episode where Elaine goes for a manicure and feels like all of the Vietnamese manicurists are talking about her, knowing that she doesn’t understand their language, then you know how I felt. They were aloof and even sneered slightly when I smiled and said hello. After the flight, we had the traditional post-flight champagne toast and some cake. The Muslim men drank the champagne and the women smoked cigarettes, two things that very religious Muslims don’t do. A guide in Istanbul told me that some Muslim women donned headscarves for political reasons rather than religious – I think this group fit into that category. After the flight the most obnoxious woman handed me her iPhone indicating (not with a smile!) that I should take their picture. I obliged (with a smile); however, when she tried to show me how to use the camera on the phone by yanking it out of my hand and pointing like I was stupid, I told her that it too was AMERICAN and I knew exactly how to use it. I never felt afraid in Turkey and most people were very nice, but for some people, if you are American, then it doesn’t matter how much you smile, spend, or say please, they just don’t like you.

Some things you should know about dining in Turkey: if the weather is nice, no one eats inside. Sidewalks and roof terraces are crowded with diners, but I don’t think I saw a single soul eating inside a restaurant the whole time I was there! Salads have very little lettuce; instead they will be full of cucumbers, tomatoes and cheese with a little olive oil drizzled on top. Salad dressing is uniquely American so if you are traveling and you can’t do without your Ranch or Honey Mustard, you’d better pack it. Turkey is famous for fish restaurants because of their many miles of coastline, and kebabs – both are delicious. A typical Turkish breakfast is cheese, olives, cucumbers, yogurt (but not the sweet stuff we eat), some bread, and maybe a little jam. But don’t worry; hotels will have cereal, fruit, and pastries for you.

Pictures below: A long table carved into a room in one of the underground cities — probably used by the Monks; a crypt; and, above ground, houses carved into the hillside.